🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.